Driving The “Haul Road” (Officially the Dalton Hwy)
(Warning: This is a very, very, very, long entry!)
Steve and I left Friday morning on an adventure that would begin about 90 miles from our house - at the start of the Dalton Hwy. The James W. Dalton Hwy (known informally as The Haul Road) is a 414-mile road that begins at the Elliott Highway, north of Fairbanks, and ends at Deadhorse near the Arctic Ocean and the Prudhoe Bay oil fields. It was built as a supply road to support the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System in 1974.
Taken from the BLM website:
The Dalton Highway stretches 414 miles across northern Alaska from Livengood (84 miles north of Fairbanks) to Deadhorse and the oilfields of Prudhoe Bay. Built during construction of the trans-Alaska oil pipeline in the 1970s, this mostly gravel highway travels through rolling, forested hills, across the Yukon River and Arctic Circle, through the rugged Brooks Range, and over the North Slope to the Arctic Ocean. Along most of its length, you’ll see no restaurants, no gift shops, no service stations—just forest, tundra, and mountains, crossed by a double ribbon of road and pipe.
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) manages a swath of public lands along the highway from the Yukon River to the north side of the Brooks Range. Within the Dalton Corridor, the BLM maintains campgrounds, rest areas, interpretive panels and a visitor center.
I borrowed this map of the Dalton Highway from the BLM website, so you can see the route we drove, and the various places we explored:
Quite a bit of preparation went into this trip. The highway, which directly parallels the pipeline, is one of the most isolated roads in the United States. There are only three towns along the route: Coldfoot (mile 175), Wiseman (mile 188), and Deadhorse (mile 414). Gas is available in only two locations along the way: the Yukon River bridge and Coldfoot. It is also available at the end of the line. Unless you want to pay extremely high fuel prices, it’s always a good idea to carry extra gas with you. We carried an extra 25 gallons of fuel for the truck (which only gets about 13mpg). We topped off our tank in Coldfoot, both coming and going, and paid $3.57/gallon.
Steve has a cap on the back of his truck, and has fabricated a platform that lays on top of the wheel wells. We took the mattress out of the camper (with the memory foam topper - comfort is key!) and placed it on the platform. Beneath the platform, there is room to store the spare tires (we had three fully mounted spares), camping gear, emergency equipment, and the other miscellaneous things that always end up going along with us on a ‘roughing it’ trip.
As always, a list sat on the kitchen counter and we added to it as we thought of things we might need, and crossed off items as we packed them in a box. We went a little overboard on the amount of foodstuff we took, but better too much than too little. We had enough food to last two weeks in the wilderness if we would have been stranded somewhere.
There isn’t any cellphone service along the highway, with the exception of Deadhorse. A CB is a good thing to have, and we are thankful for the CB my brother Steve gave us when we passed through Philadelphia back in 2003 on our way to Alaska. It allowed us to hear trucker chatter, particularly in regard to road conditions. Our favorite broadcast was hearing that hundreds of caribou were on both sides of the highway just outside of Deadhorse.
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We had a hearty breakfast at the Hilltop Cafe in Fox as a good start to our weekend adventure. The Hilltop Cafe primarily caters to truckers, so the servings are large and the food is good home cooking. We’ve driven the Elliott Highway many times in the past so the scenery - while beautiful - was familiar to us. We looked forward to getting onto the Dalton.
Steve and I drove together to the Arctic Circle soon after arriving in Alaska (August 9, 2003). A few years ago, I drove up to Gobblers Knob with my friend Diane. Gobblers Knob is 17 miles past the Arctic Circle. This would be our first trip all the way up the Dalton, and we were excited about it.
For those of you who are interested in a little history about the Dalton Highway, the following information is found in the 24-page Dalton Highway Visitor Guide which is free to download and print here.
BUILT FOR BLACK GOLD: In 1969, oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay on Alaska’s North Slope. Excitement was high at the prospect of new money to fuel Alaska’s boom-and-bust economy. The nation was in the throes of an energy crisis and pushed for an 800-mile long pipeline. But first, Native land claims had to be settled, permits granted, environmental safeguards designed, and a road built to get workers and supplies north to the oilfield. When finally approved, construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline was run like a wartime project—money was no object and time was of the essence. The weather conditions, terrain, and the immensity of the project were all extreme. Engineers overcame permafrost, mountain ranges, and the relentless flow of the Yukon River in the process. Incredibly, the Haul Road was completed in just five months and the pipeline in three years (1974-77). The previously remote Arctic was changed forever.
HAUL ROAD OR HIGHWAY?: At first, the highway was called the Haul Road because almost everything supporting oil development was“hauled” on tractor-trailer rigs to its final destination. In 1981, the State of Alaska named the highway after James B. Dalton, a lifelong Alaskan and expert in arctic engineering who was involved in early oil exploration efforts on the North Slope. The highway was open only to commercial traffic until 1981, when the state allowed public access to Disaster Creek at milepost 211. In 1994, public access was allowed all the way to Deadhorse for the first time. Today, the Dalton Highway beckons adventurous souls to explore a still-wild and mysterious frontier. Respect this harsh land and appreciate the opportunity to visit a special part of our world.
I took hundreds of photos. It seemed that every time we rounded a bend, or came over a hill, a new photo lay before me. The pipeline parallels the highway nearly the entire way to Deadhorse. There are areas where the pipeline is underground, and other areas where it veers off a distance from the road, but for the most part it is always within view. (Much of the information I’m providing in this blog entry has been taken from our Alaska bible: The Milepost.)
At mile 55.5, the Yukon River Bridge crosses the river. This wood-decked bridge was completed in 1975 and is 2290 feet long with a 6% grade. Just over the bridge there is a Visitor Center on the right hand side, with very clean outhouses. A short walking path takes you to an observation deck for a better view of the bridge and river. Across the road is the Yukon River Camp, where you can get gas, food, lodging and showers. A few miles further down the road is the Hot Spot Cafe, where Steve and I stopped to get an ice cream and milkshake.
At mile 98, there’s a turnoff for Finger Mountain BLM Wayside. While we didn’t drive into the parking lot and walk the easy path with interpretive signs, Steve did pull off the road so I could take some photos of the Tors Rocks. In season, there is good berry picking here.
Our next stop for the obligatory photo was the Arctic Circle Wayside at mile 115. The Arctic Circle Sign with a big blue earth and Latitude 66°33′ on it, is a popular photo op for travelers. At this latitude, the sun does not set on summer solstice and it does not rise on winter solstice. A third of Alaska lies within the Arctic Circle, the only true polar region in the state.
We didn’t stop again until we reached Grayling Lake Wayside at mile 150. We caught a glimpse of a tiny dot swimming across the lake. We made guesses as to what it was (caribou? moose?) until the shape turned sideways and we could see moose antlers. This bull moose was enjoying his swim/walk in the lake, and periodically dipped his head into the water to graze on the grasses growing below. I used my zoom lens to photograph him, but without my tripod, the photo isn’t as sharp as it could be.
Coldfoot Camp is at mile 175, and we made a stop here to top off the gas tank. Coldfoot is a former mining camp. A post office was first established here in 1902, when Coldfoot consisted of “one gambling hole, 2 roadhouses, 2 stores, and 7 saloons”. The name Coldfoot was first reported in 1933. “In the summer of 1900, one of the waves of green stampeders got as far up the Koyukuk as this point, then got cold feet, turned around, and departed. With this incident was enough to change the first unromantic appellation of the settlement to Coldfoot”.
Coldfoot experienced a more lasting boom during the 1970s, when it became a construction camp for the trans-Alaska pipeline. Today, Coldfoot is an important service stop for Dalton Highway travelers and a gateway to the Brooks Range wilderness.
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The weather was good on our first day, with mostly sunny skies for the majority of the drive. As we neared Marion Creek Campground (our stop for the night), clouds were thick and rain began to fall lightly.
Marion Creek Campground (mile 179.7) has 27 gravel sites and is situated in a treed area just north of Coldfoot. Each site has a picnic table and fire ring. There was also a shed with free firewood available to campers, which was nice. The camping fee for this BLM campground is $8/night. There is a campground host on the premises, and we discovered that he used to be a Haul Rd driver and knows our friend Gip. Marion Creek Campground also had the cleanest outhouses I have ever seen, which is very important to me!
The mosquitoes were pests, as expected, but we were prepared with bug spray and mosquito head nets. I had also fashioned a way to use one of the screen houses from our tenting days to create a screened area on the back of the truck, so that we could go in and out without letting a gazillion biting buggers into our sleeping area. It also gave us shelter from the rain which fell that night. It wasn’t the prettiest setup in the world, but it sure did the job well.
We had chicken salad on pita bread for dinner that evening, changed into warm and much more comfortable fleece lounging clothes, and were fast asleep by 11pm, despite the sun shining in the windows. The next morning it was still raining, and we were both thankful for my little shelter so that we could climb in and out of the truck bed without soaking all of our bedding.
We had reservations for a 5pm tour of the oil fields and the Arctic Ocean in Prudhoe. With a 235 mile drive ahead of us, we knew we should get on the road before 9am. We boiled water on our camp stove for coffee, grabbed a few energy bars, and packed up. The rain fell intermittently for several hours, but this didn’t detract from the beautiful landscape.
We deviated 3 miles to drive into Wiseman - which is located just 9 miles north of Marion Creek Campground. Wiseman is a historic mining town on the Koyukuk River established in 1908. The heyday of Wiseman came in about 1910, after gold seekers abandoned Coldfoot. This is still an active mining area.
Near the post office, there’s a faded sign which marks the trail to the old Wiseman Cemetery. I love cemeteries and would have loved to have visited the one in Wiseman, but it was a 20 minute mosquito-infested walk, and we just didn’t want to have to deal with that.
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Between Wiseman and Atigun Pass (near mile 245), the road crosses many streams and rivers, traverses hills and valleys, and can vary in condition from hard pack gravel to paved to washboard and rutted conditions. In some places it is very narrow, which necessitates pulling off the road (when possible) to let the big rigs pass. In other places it is very steep. The big rigs need to gain speed to make it up the steep hills, so it’s in your best interest to let them pass - particularly on a descent - so that they can keep up their momentum.
We stopped many times so that I could take photographs of the landscape, the wildflowers and the mountains. The views were absolutely stunning; even the white-knuckle portions of the drive. I took so many photos, but didn’t want to overload you with them, so I narrowed it down to less than 100 for this entry. *grin*
The next group of photos were taken between Coldfoot and Deadhorse. You can see how varied (and beautiful!) the landscape is in this uninhabited part of the state. I wanted to include some information about the Atigun Pass and surrounding area, and took the following information from our 2009 copy of The Milepost.
There are many large and small streams which flow under the highway. Some of the streams continue to flow during winter below a frozen surface. Tall piping on some creek culverts are “thaw pipes”, which help keep ice from blocking culverts in winter.
At mile 234.9 there is a sign that reads “Entering North Slope Borough - the world’s largest municipality” [in land area]. Approximately 6,807 people live in this borough which makes up about 15 percent of Alaska. 73 percent of these people are Alaska Native or part Native, according to the Alaska Community Database. North Slope Borough offices are located in Barrow.
Unlike the rest of the United States, which is organized into counties, Alaska’s unit of regional government is the borough. Each borough has independent, incorporated communities within its boundaries.
At mile 235.2 stands the last spruce tree along the Dalton Highway northbound. It’s dead now, but still standing. I missed taking a photo of it on the way north, but did grab a photo of it on the way back. That photo will be posted later in this blog entry - in the next grouping.
Mile 244.7 is a turnout at the top of Atigun Pass (elev 4800′) in the Brooks Range. It’s the highest highway pass in Alaska. Dall sheep can be spotted in this area. The sheep congregate on and near the highway to lick the calcium chloride put on the roads for dust reduction. Dall sheep range throughout Alaska’s major mountain ranges. They are the only white, wild sheep in the world. Dall sheep have honey colored or dark brown horns. Rams have heavy, curled horns. Ewes and immature sheep of both sexes have thinner, almost straight horns, which causes some viewers to mistake them for mountain goats.
Many mountains in this area exceed 7000′ in elevation. There are avalanche gun emplacements in this area. The pipeline is in a buried, insulated concrete cribbing to protect it from rock slides and avalanches, and to keep the ground frozen.
At mile 269.2 is the entrance to Pump Station No. 4. There are 11 pump stations in all, and they are numbered from Prudhoe to Valdez, although pump station number 11 was never built (the number skips from 10 to 12). Pump Station 4 has the highest elevation of all the pipeline stations (2760′) and is also a launching and receiving station for special measuring and cleaning devices called “pigs”. A scraper pig moves through the pipe, cleaning accumulated wax from interior walls and monitoring conditions inside the pipe. These are called ‘dumb pigs’. ‘Smart pigs’ scan the pipeline to check welds, wall thickness and other properties to insure the integrity of the piping and indentify maintenance needs.
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About 30 miles past Atigun Pass is Galbraith Camp. Our original plan was to camp here on the way back from Prudhoe, so we checked it out on the way. I took the photos of the wildflowers (in the above grouping) along the road leading to this campground. We decided against staying there when we realized it was in a flat area with no wind buffer and the temperature was at least 20 degrees colder than Marion Creek Campground near Coldfoot.
You’ll notice the photo I have of the cyclist above. She was traveling with her husband along the Dalton Hwy, and had a bit of a lead on him. It’s not unusual for cyclists to travel this road, although the trip by bicycle is certainly much longer and more grueling - particularly when climbing some of the steep grades. Going downhill has to be exhilarating though!
We later found out the she and her husband were carried to a river access area by a trucker we spoke to in Coldfoot on the way home. (He loaded up their bikes and gave them a ride) I don’t remember what country they were from (Sweden?) but, according to the truck driver, she was a Mathematician and he was a Nuclear Scientist. They planned to spend the entire summer biking in Alaska.
About 60 miles from Deadhorse is the Last Chance Wayside. From here there are panoramic views of the Arctic coastal plain (weather permitting). Musk ox, and the Porcupine and Central Arctic caribou herds migrate through this 
area on their way to and from their calving grounds. Migratory birds from around the world nest and breed on the Arctic coastal plain: king eiders, spectacled eiders, Canada geese, snow geese, tundra swans, jaegers, snowy owls, and more.
Fifty-six miles out, the road becomes a long straight stretch to the north. We heard on the CB radio that the caribou were abundant in this final stretch and were making their way back and forth across the road. I was looking forward to seeing them.
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In the first photo above, the small hill on the horizon is called a “pingo”. Pingos often form from the bed of a spring-fed lake that has been covered by vegetation. Freezing of the water can raise the surface severael hundred feet above the surrounding terrain.
In the middle photo above, a car waits for the caribou to leisurely cross the road. Our tour guide on Prudhoe told us that he once waited 45 minutes for thousands of caribou to cross the road during the spring migration. In the photo to the right above, the colorful hills in the background are called Franklin Bluffs.
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Finally…. the sign we were looking for:
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We first passed Deadhorse Camp, and I noticed red bunker type buildings on the property. I didn’t know until I just researched the link, that these bunkers were ‘hotel’ rooms. There are no restroom/shower facilities in your room. These services are located in a building 300 feet away. Uh…. sorry, but no. I wouldn’t want to have to walk a football field to get to the restroom in the middle of the night! Maybe they supply ‘honey buckets‘ for guests?! *grin*
We kept on driving until we reached the welcome sign for Prudhoe Bay. We followed the directional signs until we found the Arctic Caribou Inn, which is where our tour of the oil fields and visit to the Arctic Ocean would originate. ($40/pp for the tour) Because we were more than an hour early, we decided to have dinner before the tour. As luck would have it, the dinner hour was from 4-5pm.
This was no tourist restaurant. It was a dining facility for the oil workers, who also stayed in the “Inn”. The spread was pretty amazing for being at the top of the world, and quite reasonable in cost ($20/pp). Three main entrees were offered, along with soup, sides and veggies, a salad and dessert bar, and drinks.
At the start of the line is a “mandatory” hand-cleaning station with automatic sanitizer dispensed. From there you pick up a tray, dinnerware and utensils, and move through the line cafeteria style - serving yourself from the many offerings. Steve and I were both quite impressed with both the quality and the quantity of food.
As luck would have it, Steve ran into a group of co-workers who also decided to make a trip to the Arctic Ocean this past weekend. We dined together and were on the same scheduled tour.
At 5pm, we were directed to a room where we watched a short but informative film about the oil industry and the techniques and procedures they use to extract the oil, with as little an impact on the environment as possible.
After showing our ID to the tour guide (security officer), we boarded a small bus and made our way to the security checkpoint that everyone must pass through to go to the east or west side - which is where the drilling takes place. This is also the only way to the Arctic Ocean.
Our guide was quite knowledgeable about the operation, and explained what all the different buildings were, as well as the different jobs that the workers did. He pointed out special vehicles built especially for traversing ice in winter, and also those built for moving across fragile tundra in summer. As we made our way past a huge pond in the middle of all of this, a pair of tundra swans paddled peacefully in the water. Our guide pointed out that migratory birds come to Prudhoe by the thousands, as do bears (both grizzly and polar), and other Alaska wildlife.
After driving around the camp, we parked at East Dock, on the edge of the Arctic Ocean. The guide had towels in the bus for anyone who wanted to take a splash in the ocean. It was cold - about 37 degrees, with 20mph winds - so Steve and I decided against putting our feet in the water, and instead decided that we’d just put our hands in. Two of Steve’s co-workers (Mary and John) did take off their shoes and wade into the frigid water. Brave people!
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In the photos above, you can see that there is still ice on the Arctic Ocean. In about a week the ice will all go out to sea, and the polar bears will come in. Too bad we didn’t schedule this trip for later this month! Also, in the bottom right photo, you can see a huge pile of driftwood. This wood comes from the MacKenzie River in Canada. The MacKenzie river originates in the Northwest Territories and flows northward into the Arctic Ocean.
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Steve and I decided that we were going to drive back to Marion Creek Campground north of Coldfoot after the tour was over at 7pm. With 24 hours of daylight, we hoped to make it back by midnight - and we made it by 10 minutes after. We’re glad that we made the decision to drive back, even though we were both exhausted (Steve especially) after a grueling 500 mile day. But the forecast was calling for a possibility of snow north of the Brooks Range, and we didn’t want to get caught in that or the overnight cold temps.
The sunlight on the way back to Coldfoot was absolutely stunning. There was some cloud cover, which funneled the orange light of the sun onto the mountains and made the landscape glow with color. And the views were brand new, as we were now enjoying them from the other direction. I think we stopped just as often on the way back to Coldfoot, as we did on the way up to Prudhoe earlier that day.
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When we crossed Atigun Pass, the clouds were heavier and rain was falling in spurts. By the time we arrived at the campground it was raining. There is nothing quite so exciting as setting up camp in the rain, while being tortured by hungry mosquitoes. Not only were we wet, but the truck and everything on the cargo trailer was covered in mud.
Do you know how difficult it is to climb into the bed of a truck without touching any parts of it? It’s darn near impossible, and I was thankful for the baby wipes we had, so that we could wash the bulk of the mud off of our hands. Once we got ourselves cleaned up, we had the task of killing the dozen or so mosquitoes who thought sleeping inside with the human blood was more appealing than the damp and chilly night air.
Steve fell asleep almost immediately. I lay there awake, listening to the rain hitting the roof while scanning the air for missed dive bombers. Eventually I did fall asleep, but nature’s call woke me at 5am. Lovely. Back I climbed out of the muddy truck, where I became instant mosquito food. I couldn’t find my rain jacket (it was in the cab of the truck), so I ran to the outhouse with only a sweatshirt over my head. I came back to the truck wet, muddy, and sporting mosquito bites in places I’ve never had them before. Fortunately, I fell back to sleep almost immediately and didn’t wake until I felt Steve stirring at 9am.
We were told that the Trucker’s Cafe at Coldfoot served a good breakfast, so we quickly packed up, washed up (as best we could), and drove the few miles down the road. It was so wonderful to sit inside where the mosquitoes were practically nonexistent and the coffee and conversation flowed. The table specifically for truckers was half full, and a couple more men were in the tiny vestibule by the bathrooms, chatting on the telephone. A table full of tourists attempted to have breakfast on the front porch/deck, but changed their mind when the blood-suckers discovered them.
We ate until we were exploding, and most of what we talked about was how nice it would be to take a shower. I couldn’t believe how excited we both got over real sinks and soap in the restrooms. I think I scrubbed my hands for five minutes straight. I realized then, that I would have been a major complainer if I lived in the Pioneer Days and had to go from camp to camp with only a proper bath once every couple of weeks. Ew.
I didn’t take very many photos on the way home, so I’m just going to post them in regular size here without the thumbnails. One thing we noticed on the way home, that we didn’t notice on the way up, was that the fireweed was blooming. This means I’m going to have to take a drive up the Steese Highway with a gal pal (since I don’t think Steve wants to drive anywhere for a while), to see if they’re as brilliant up on Eagle Summit as they were last year.
We stopped at Hot Spot Cafe again, so that Steve could get more ice cream. I passed on it this time.
This is the restroom at Hot Spot Cafe. See the white sign? Do you know what it says?
Here it is:
“BEWARE of BEARS. Use outhouse with caution. Please pay attention :). If you have not seen a bear, you could at anytime up close!! Make noise. Look around!! Thank you!”
This is a panoramic taken from the Elliott Highway, after we got off the Dalton:
Close up of a fireweed:
And that concludes the commentary and photo tour of our trip to Prudhoe and the Arctic Ocean. I hope you enjoyed going along with us! Our next adventure (in July) will hopefully include a trip to Katmai and a walk with the bears! *fingers crossed that the weather cooperates*
Until next time…
Very nice. Thank you for sharing…it’s a trip I’ve always wanted to take but have not had the chance yet.
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 4:49 am
Thanks, Lara. The drive was much better than we thought it would be, although ‘roughing it’ for folks like us (who have become quite accustomed to our travel trailer) took some getting used to. And the mosquitoes weren’t very accommodating! We came through it with all tires intact and no windshield chips - which is a good thing. The views were magnificent. We plan to do it again when they pave the road a little more. I’ve heard there are plans to have a good portion of it paved by 2012 I believe.
[Reply]
Lou Perti Reply:
July 22nd, 2009 at 8:47 am
Thanks for the Great read I along with 2 friends will be driving the Dalton come the 3rd week in August wish us Luck
Lou
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
July 22nd, 2009 at 9:03 am
Have a great time, Lou! The third week in August, you might see some snow up there, but you’ll also see some gorgeous autumn colors too.
Drive safe and enjoy!
~Susan
[Reply]
Comment by Lara Poirrier — June 23, 2009 @ 11:27 pm
Susan,
Great chronicle of your trip north! I actually had my atlas open to the Alaska map tracing your route. You are such a marvelous writer and photographer! I came across your link while researching Alaska prior to my wife and I visitng Alaska earlier this month. We did the Inner Passage cruise and land tour to Denali. Absolutely spectacular and we would love to go back and visit other areas. Maybe we will be fortunate enough to do just that! Keep up the excellent writing describing life in Alaska. I (and many others I’m sure) enjoy it immensely.
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 4:53 am
Thank you for commenting, Bob. I’m glad you enjoyed our trip up the Haul Road. It was truly a spectacular experience, and I’m so glad we finally went. It was desolate, and yet we didn’t feel entirely alone. The truckers were a comfort to see on the road.
How wonderful that you had a chance to visit Alaska. I haven’t cruised the Inside Passage yet, but that’s on my list. We’ll be checking out Haines and Skagway this summer, as we can get to them by road.
Denali is one of my favorite places to visit. It’s particularly beautiful in the autumn, but then again - it’s always beautiful.
I’m pleased that you enjoyed this blog entry, and my journal. I hope you’ll continue to stop by.
Best regards,
Susan
[Reply]
Comment by Bob — June 24, 2009 @ 1:46 am
Hey Susan,
WOW!! That looked like a great trip. The picture of the truck dirty, is too funny. It looks like my car after I go to the Dairy! And that icecream looked yummy. Dad really likes his icecream, LOL! I’m so glad ya’ll had a wonderful time. See ya! XOXO
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 4:55 am
It was really a good trip, Kayla! The views were so incredible. I do hope that you and Robby can get up here in the summertime someday so we can show you the scenery when it’s not covered in snow!
Your dad is an ice cream fiend! Haha! If it’s in the house, he has a bowl at night before bed. No matter how muddy and wet it was, he just had to stop for his ice cream!
The truck was hosed off, but still needs a good washing. There is dust everywhere. Even inside. Whatever crack the dirt could find, it came in.
Love ya,
Susan
[Reply]
Comment by ~*Kayla Melton*~ — June 24, 2009 @ 2:50 am
That outhouse/near photo is great! But I imagine really needed!
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 9:34 am
I was surprised to see that poster outside the outhouse. But then again, the Hot Spot Cafe is the only source of food in that area, so I’m sure the bears know where they can try to get a meal - whether it’s foodstuff or human!
[Reply]
Comment by Shell — June 24, 2009 @ 8:53 am
What an absolutely breath taking trip. I wonder if you could put together a packet of pictures and information for a grade school class in the lower 48 of the pipe line. I would think that some history class or something would love to see the pictures and information that you hold. You could write a book about the pipe line, from start to end. I would suspect that such a project would take all summer, but can you imagine the scenery one would see between Prudhoe and Valdez? This trip of yours held some of the best pictures I could ever imagine. Excellent story. Thanks
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 9:40 am
Thank you Layne. It was truly an amazing trip. I hope that you’ll consider taking it yourself. We saw quite a few bikers on the road, but I don’t know how a flat would work in that situation, as they didn’t carry spare tires. It would probably be safer to do it in a car/truck - and much cleaner! Those poor bikers were a muddy mess by the time they got to Prudhoe.
As for the spare tires? We had three, and they recommend two, but if you take your time through the really potholed areas, you’ll be fine. The graders were working constantly.
I got much of the information in this blog entry from online research, the Milepost, and other reading. I like to include that pertinent information for folks reading my blog who don’t know much about Alaska, and things like the pipeline.
Have you read the book “Walking my Dog Jane” by Ned Rozell? ( http://www.amazon.com/Walking-My-Dog-Jane-Trans-Alaska/dp/0882405942 ) If not, I highly recommend it. Ned walked the entire pipeline one summer and wrote about the people he met along the way, his adventure, and the landscape and terrain. It’s an easy read and quite informative and entertaining.
[Reply]
Comment by Layne — June 24, 2009 @ 8:56 am
Wow, I really enjoyed this extended version of your trip. Breathtaking photos. I particularly liked the ‘Bear Warning’ outside “the Hot spot Cafe’ restroom. I wonder what you would do if you were in there when a bear came calling.
[Reply]
susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 9:49 am
Thank you Josie. I’m glad you enjoyed it. It was truly a wonderful adventure, and a trip that I’m thrilled we were able to do. Except for the bit of rain and hungry mosquitoes, it couldn’t have been more perfect. The landscape more than makes up for mosquito bites and mud!
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Comment by Josie Brady (Myrhiann) — June 24, 2009 @ 9:42 am
Wow, Susan! Thanks for sharing your trip. Your photos are amazing as usual and I love learning about Alaska through the experiences you share. My family and I are still looking forward to calling Alaska home someday and seeing its beauty for ourselves. I have been saving info. from your trips and others from the Alaska Living group that I don’t want to miss once we get there, and on the trip up. I love keeping up with your site and looking at my calendar, both give me much to look forward to. Happy to see your site was recognized in the News-Miner…Well Deserved! Your photography and site is amazing!! Take Care! Enjoy your future travels. I will be looking forward to the photos and your experiences!
Blessings,
Jenny
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 10:32 am
Thanks, Jenny. I’m glad you enjoyed this blog entry and photos. I’m so glad that Steve and I finally made this trip up to the Arctic Ocean. It was really amazing! Even if it would have rained on us constantly, it would have been beautiful. The wide expanses of landscape are just breathtaking. My photos don’t do it justice. You surely must see it for yourself!
Good luck as your plans come together for your move to Alaska! It’s a very special place.
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Comment by Jenny Rohler — June 24, 2009 @ 9:47 am
Absolutely lovely. My hubby worked the “haul road” for the State - way back when - AND I’ve always wanted to make the trip after it was opened to everyone. Take time to know Wiseman - itused to be a great place to visit with old timers and dog racing folks. AND anytime you want to post pic of fireweed I’ll be there looking - dang I do miss that beautiful site. Thanks again - it was a great trip.
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 3:14 pm
How cool that your husband worked the haul road. It must have been quite the adventure. Kudos to the many hard workers that put that road in. What an amazing feat!
Wiseman was very quiet the day we stopped by for a short visit. It was early in the day too, which could account for the lack of activity. I really would have liked to have had time to visit the cemetery.
What a surprise to see fireweed where there wasn’t any only a few days prior! I can’t wait to drive up the Steese to see if it’s blooming near Eagle Summit. The views from there are beautiful too.
Thank you for commenting!
Susan
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Comment by Mary — June 24, 2009 @ 2:07 pm
Susan, you are a blessing. The last two summers I was able to visit a friend in Fairbanks and your photographs and words remind me how much I love it there. Creamers Field, Pioneer Park, Denali Park, wildflowers, wildlife, hiking, rivers, blueberries, Murphy’s Dome, Chatanika dredge, Rose’s cafe, camping, outhouses, UAF….oh how I yearn to return. There is so much more I want to experience - the coasts (Arctic and Gulf of Alaska) and everything in between!!!
I’m thinking that if your children lived up there with you, then your life would be pretty much perfect.
Peace to you and your family.
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 3:17 pm
Hi Pella and thank you for commenting. I’m happy to know that my blog entries and photos remind you of your visits to Fairbanks. I do hope that you get to experience all that you want to - and soon! I don’t think I could ever grow tired of living in Alaska.
And yes… if my children were here with me… my life would be perfect indeed.
Thanks again,
Susan
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Comment by Pella — June 24, 2009 @ 2:53 pm
Susan:
I’m now officially obsessed with Alaska! After reading your amazing stories and seeing your incredible photos, I can hardly wait to move there. (This is coming from a fifth generation native of Florida.)
Thanks for adding a delightful chill to this miserably hot day!
Jewel
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 4:23 pm
Hi Jewel. It’s easy to become obsessed with Alaska! I’m so happy to live here as there are so many beautiful things to see around every bend. The scenery changes constantly with the light and the weather, but it’s all awe-inspiring.
We moved up here from FL in 2003 (JAX). I’m not a native of FL, but we enjoyed our time there. We lived in the SE for 13 years and missed having ‘real’ winters. Well, we sure have them here! *grin*
It’s chilly here today, and I’d actually like a bit of your warmth for a couple of hours at least!
Thanks for commenting, and good luck on your move.
Susan
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Comment by Jewel — June 24, 2009 @ 4:06 pm
Susan,
Beautiful as usual! Awesome pictures, as usual, and I am uber jealous of the trip, and your bear sighting. I’m dying to see an Alaskan bear. LOL. I definitely took away some tips and tricks for our Haul Road trip next summer.
BEAUTIFUL!
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 24th, 2009 at 8:19 pm
Hi Karla! I’m happy to know you plan to do this drive next year. If you are also planning to take the tour to the Arctic Ocean, plan your trip for later in the summer. Then, the ice will be out (hopefully) and your chances of seeing a polar bear might be better. That would be super cool!
If you have any questions as you get closer to going, don’t hesitate to ask. I know you’ll love it!
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Comment by Karla — June 24, 2009 @ 7:59 pm
Your photos are absolutely stunning. I’ve spent years dreaming of making a trip like this. Thank you so much for sharing the awe inspiring beauty of AK through your pictures.
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 26th, 2009 at 2:40 pm
Thank you very much, Jeanne. I do hope that you get to make such an amazing trip someday. It was a wonderful experience - one that I will never forget.
Best regards,
Susan
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Comment by Jeanne — June 26, 2009 @ 2:28 pm
WOW what an adventure Susan. I am so envious of you (and everyone who has this opportunity). Your commentary equals the photography. Thanks for telling and sharing your story!!
Warm regards,
Von
aka TimeshareVon
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 26th, 2009 at 3:28 pm
Hi Von and thanks for your lovely comment. I do hope you’ll drive the Haul Rd yourself someday. You’ll love the landscape!
Take care,
Susan
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Comment by Yvonne Bennett — June 26, 2009 @ 2:46 pm
SPECTACULAR!!!!!!! That’s the word that came to my mind the whole time I was reading this. Wow, what a drive that is. And how exciting to be on top of the world like that! Amazing…it never ceases to amaze me the bountiful beauty that is ALASKA! What an awesome trip, thanks Susan for such a great narrative on it and those gorgeous photos!
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
June 27th, 2009 at 7:15 pm
Thank you Lynn. I’m glad you enjoyed going along for the trip. I’m so glad we went. I wish we would have gone years ago. What a beautiful drive it was. Definitely and adventure!
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Comment by LynnMN — June 27, 2009 @ 10:37 am
Hello Susan,
Your story and photos are breath taking! I wish we could have gone along, and in a way we did because your commentary was as descriptive and colorful as your photos. (I could even feel the mosquito bites).
Back in ‘99 we took a tour that included Fairbanks, Denali, Anchorage and the Inside Passage. While in Denali on the “8 Hour Bus Trip”, an 86 year old traveling companion used the port a potty. Our driver started yelling to get back on the bus because there was a grizzly behind the potty. Our friend was still inside! He drove the bus as close as he could and 2 men jumped out and grabbed Lois under both arms and almost threw her on the bus. She came up the aisle grinning and pulling up her pants.
On Aug. 17 and 18 we will be in Fairbanks again on another trip with more friends who need to see how beautiful Alaska is. Thanks to you I plan to visit Creamer Field. Maybe we will be lucky enough to see you and Sedona out for a walk.
Gail from Maine
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 28th, 2009 at 12:36 pm
Hi Gail, and thanks for commenting. I’m happy that you enjoyed this entry and photos. It truly was a great adventure, and I’m so glad we decided to go.
Your story about the port a potty and the bear made me laugh, but also made me imagine what it would have been like to be in that situation! I’m glad things turned out well, and Lois only had her dignity a little bruised!
At Marion Creek campground, there are latches on the outside of the outhouse doors so that they can’t be opened by critters (I’m assuming). Believe me, when I had to make a visit, I kept my eyes peeled for any movement in the woods. I’m thankful that it is summer and there is so much daylight, so it’s easier to see four-legged creatures!
By the time you visit, I do believe the sandhill cranes will be back at Creamers in large numbers. They stop here on their fall migration. I love to see them in the fall, as the light is generally good for photographing them and they seem to be quite animated with their ‘dances’ and minor aggressiveness. It makes for some great photos.
If the weather (and mosquitoes) permits, check out the Boreal Forest Trail. It’s quite a pretty walk through the trees, with markers along the way that correspond with a trail map you can pick up at the visitor center.
Enjoy your visit!
Susan
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Comment by Gail Drake — June 27, 2009 @ 9:10 pm
Hi Susan,
We have been back from BC / NWT Canada a week now and catching up with your blog, The Haul Road has to be on our next trip to Alaska after reading about your trip and looking at the photo’s. Another trip we would like to do is the Dempster. (Dawson to Inuvik) Trouble is the rentals don’t like you doing them.
Keep well and enjoy life. mick and lynne.
P.S Will you be doing the calender again this year ? as many of my customers are asking about it already.
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 28th, 2009 at 12:45 pm
Hi Mick and Lynn, and thanks for stopping by and commenting. We’ll be visiting BC and NWT in August. We’re looking forward to it as we haven’t been back to Canada since we drove up in 2003.
The Dalton drive was easier than we anticipated, but that doesn’t mean it can’t turn into a challenge if things don’t go as planned. We’re fortunate in that we didn’t get any flat tires or run into any problems except for the hungry mosquitoes. At times I wish I had a full mosquito suit, as they seemed to find the smallest bit of exposed flesh! I even got bites between my fingers!
I will have to look into the Dempster Hwy as another adventure. It appears that it crosses the same terrain, but has more amenities to make travel easier (camping, etc.)
As for the calendar - I’m not sure. If I do, I might only offer it in a limited number, as it really took a lot of work and time to package them up and post them last year. I was pleasantly overwhelmed by the response, but offering it so close to the holidays made things quite stressful for me. If I do decide to offer a 2010 calendar, I may make it available in October. I’ll mention it in my blog if that happens.
Thanks for your interest, and I’m happy that everyone is enjoying it!
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Comment by mick and lynne cardus. UK — June 28, 2009 @ 2:54 am
I cannot convey to you how priceless your blog and the photos are to me. As I sit and devour your every word and photo, all I can do is shed many many tears of joy and yearning. My time in Fairbanks was much too brief, only 4 years, and very long ago (1968-1972).The memories you have awakened and the emotions you have stirred are absolutely without a doubt the most divine experience I have ever enjoyed. Please keep me in mind when you are having your wonderful adventures and know that I am following your every step in spirit.
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 28th, 2009 at 1:17 pm
Thank you, Dottie, for your lovely words. Reading your comment warms my heart. While I am happy that my blog and photos stir memories in you from your time in Fairbanks, I am also sad that your time here was so brief. I know if we had only spent a couple of years here, I would miss Fairbanks, and Alaska, greatly.
I am happy to have you along on our adventures! Summer is a busy time for us, so there will be plenty of photos (and blogging) to share in the coming months.
Warmest regards,
Susan
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Comment by Dottie Lawhorn — June 28, 2009 @ 5:02 am
Hey Susan,
I sure enjoyed your blog and photos. Couldn’t stop reading until the end!! We were on the Dalton up to the Artic Circle in 2004. We spent the whole month of July touring the state. Have been longing to return to beautiful Alaska ever since that trip…maybe now even try the trip to Prudhoe Bay.
Joyce from Virginia
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susanstevenson Reply:
June 28th, 2009 at 2:36 pm
Hi Joyce, and thanks for commenting. I’m sure the Dalton is in much better condition now. From what I understand, they pave more and more of it each year. We were surprised to find a long stretch in the middle of nowhere that was totally paved. It helped us to make up some travel time, but seemed odd all the same.
We’ve always wanted to do the trip to the end of the road, and I’m glad we did. The tour of Prudhoe and the Arctic Ocean was really interesting and worth the time and money. It’s the only way you can see the ocean and we didn’t want to go all the way and not do that!
Best regards,
Susan
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Comment by Joyce Burkholder — June 28, 2009 @ 11:47 am
Hi Susan,
Thank you for putting your time in to document your trip. I moved up to Anchorage two months ago and not sure exactly how long I am going to be here so I am going to make the trip up to Prudhoe Bay either starting this Wednesday or Saturday. I have been trying to find out as much about the trip as possible before going up and your posting was sooooooo helpful. I am very pumped to make the trip even though it is by myself. I was wondering if you could give any helpful suggestions to make the trip as most worth while as possible?
Since I am by myself I am planning on laying down the seats in my Grand Cherokee and sleep in the back. Not really sure exactly how much time I am going to allow. Just driving up here to AK I averaged 15 to 18 hours a day so I know I will be able to make some long hauls.
Thanks again Joyce. Enjoy the great summer weather.
Sam
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susanstevenson Reply:
July 6th, 2009 at 8:59 pm
Hi Sam, and thanks for commenting. Have fun on your trip. The only words of advice I can give are to make sure you have rain gear, and if you don’t already have it, pick up a mosquito net for over your head. I got ours for only a few bucks at WalMart. They kept us from losing our minds. The bug spray kept us from getting bit, but the mosquitoes were so annoying that they just buzzed right in your face.
Also, the most challenging part of camping, was when it was raining and getting in and out of the sleeping area without letting rain and mosquitoes in. We had one of those newfangled mosquito tennis racquets (they zap the bugs) and used it a lot.
We used the Coldfoot area as base camp (Marion Creek, which is only a few miles past Coldfoot as you’re heading north) It’s a really nice campground, and we felt more secure having safety in numbers, as we didn’t know what to expect. There are many stretches of road which are quite desolate.
With the long hours of daylight, you can make the trip as quick as you’re comfortable doing it. Our second day (Marion Creek to Prudhoe and back to Marion Creek) was a long one, and we were both pretty beat.
Hopefully the weather will cooperate for you. When it rains, it’s muddy. I’d definitely recommend a stop at the Coldfoot Lodge for a meal. Their breakfast was really good and portions were quite large. Take plenty of water with you (both for drinking and washing up - especially if it’s rainy/muddy)
Most of all, just have fun! If you plan to take the tour to the ocean, you HAVE to make your reservation at least 24 hours in advance and provide them with your drivers license number. You don’t have to pay until you get there though, and there is no penalty for canceling (they realize folks don’t always keep to their timetable) When you make the reservation, ask about going another time if you run late. They have one at 5pm, and another at 7 or 8am the next morning. We went with Arctic Caribou Inn 866-659-2368
Enjoy and drive safe!
Best regards,
Susan
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Comment by Sam — July 6, 2009 @ 7:37 pm
I was wondering why the semi’s can’t haul there cargo during the summer months instead of driving it in the winter.
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susanstevenson Reply:
July 12th, 2009 at 7:10 pm
They haul their cargo all year round, as the oil production up at Prudhoe Bay is a 24/hours day production.
The road is a lot more challenging in winter, and there are also drills out in the water which are reached by ice roads in the winter, after the water freezes.
Thanks for commenting,
Susan
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Comment by Terri — July 12, 2009 @ 5:51 pm
Hi Susan,
Excellent write-up and spectacular pictures. We rode motorcycles from Seattle to Deadhorse in 1999. The gravel started about 30 - 50 miles past Fox. Even then they were talking about having the Haul Road paved in just a few years. It doesn’t look like they’ve made much progress. Having said that, I agree with you that paving the road will take something away from the experience.
Your blog brought back great memories.
Cheers,
Tom
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susanstevenson Reply:
August 1st, 2009 at 7:22 pm
Hi Tom, and I’m sorry it took me so long to respond to your comment. We were traveling, and I’ve finally had enough time to sit down and reply.
How wonderful that you did the drive up the Haul Road yourself - and on bikes too! We ran into several bikers who also made the trip the same day we did. They were a muddy mess as the rain that fell intermittently made for some dirty driving. But they seemed well prepared.
There’s a stretch of paved road now, right in the middle of the drive. Odd that it’s there, as it makes no sense, but it allowed us to boost our speed to 60mph for a short distance and make up some time.
I’m happy you enjoyed my blog and photos. It was quite a beautiful drive. Nothing like getting out in Alaska’s wide open spaces!
Thanks for emailing me too, and sending me the link to your blog. I’ll be responding to your email in a little bit, and checking out your blog. What a trip that must have been!
Again, thanks for commenting and writing.
Best regards,
Susan
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Comment by Tom Hunter — July 26, 2009 @ 3:50 pm
Hi Susan, I am so glad that you all made your trip up all the way up to Prudhoe Bay. Wow! I had a friend in Alaska who did it and told me about it; but I’ve never seen pictures of it a very well documented story. thanks so much! It’s the realm of discovering and seeing Alaska’s secrets and reporting that I just live reading about!
Awesome!
Suzanne Allen
Clovis, New Mexico
(discovering New Mexico’s Old West stories
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susanstevenson Reply:
August 1st, 2009 at 7:33 pm
Hi Suzanne, and thanks for commenting. I hope you’re enjoying New Mexico and exploring the area. It’s a lovely area, and Steve and I are contemplating a trip to the southwest in December in celebration of our birthdays. We’ll probably visit AZ though, but nothing’s carved in stone. We love AZ and southern UT and the parks there.
The drive up the Haul Road was awesome! I’m so glad we did it. What an adventure, and the scenery was absolutely stunning! The mosquitoes could have chosen another place to swarm though. *grin*
I’m glad you enjoyed this blog entry and the photos. There is still so much more of this great state to see. I’m glad that Steve shares the joy of roadtripping with me.
Take care,
Susan
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Comment by Suzanne Allen — August 1, 2009 @ 2:27 pm
[...] Here’s my very long, and very photo-heavy, blog entry about our trip: The Haul Road [...]
Pingback by Alaska In My Dreams And Alaska Wiki » Post Topic » Ice Road Truckers is Doing the Dalton Highway in Alaska — December 4, 2009 @ 6:47 am
Susan,
Great job on the site loved it. You mentioned that you took 3 extra tires, did you use any of them. We drove the Dempster two years ago and will be doing the Dalton this September. We ended up using 1 or the 2 extra tires we took. From your pictures it looks like the Dempster is worse than the Dalton but you may have taken pics of the “good” part of the road. Also we plan on doing some of trail hiking along the Dalton, did you at anytime feel any trepidation about leaving your vehicle unatended along the road? We used the Milepost when we did the Dempster and have our 2010 version for the Dalton it is a must have for sure.
Thanks,
Kevin and Lesa
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
May 30th, 2010 at 9:32 am
Hi Kevin and Lesa,
We didn’t have to use any of our tires on this trip, but we felt better knowing we had them. We once ruined two tires on the drive to Kennecott/McCarthy several years back, so it’s better to be safe than sorry!
We looked into doing the Dempster ourselves. It looks like a similar drive. There were portions of the Dalton that were potholed and washboard and slowed us down, but the paved portions were a welcome respite. Odd to see a long stretch of paving in the middle of the drive, but it helped us to make up time. At other portions of the drive, the road is narrow (a car and a half wide). If you have a big rig coming at you, or behind you, it can be a little stressful to find a safe place to pull out and let them pass.
We didn’t leave our vehicle for long periods of time, staying within view of it, but I wouldn’t be worried about leaving it unattended. The road is mostly traveled by trucks, and once you get past the Arctic Circle ‘tourist stop’, you’ll find yourself mostly alone.
When in September are you planning your drive? The snow flies fairly early on the Dalton, so keep an eye on the weather. Atigun Pass can be a challenge if the roads are slick or snow-covered.
Enjoy your trip! I look forward to doing it again. The landscape is gorgeous!
Susan
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Comment by Kevin — May 30, 2010 @ 8:47 am