Living in Alaska - Life in the Last Frontier

Read (Part 1) North Pole to Haines

This entry is REALLY LONG and PHOTO INTENSIVE!

ARRIVAL IN HAINES - Tuesday, August 11th

Just after descending from the mountains that surround Haines, we came to the US Customs station. We were so worried about what we would face at the border crossings - both coming and going - and there was no reason for it. Crossing was a piece of cake. We were asked a couple of questions, the most important one being “Do you have any firearms or ammunition”, with “Are you carrying any alcohol or tobacco products?” as the second most asked question.

Canada asked us if we were transporting pets, but didn’t ask to see any documentation on them. The other border crossings didn’t even ask about pets. I’ve heard horror stories from folks crossing in and out of the US from Canada, so I’m sure that there are occasions when things don’t go as smoothly. In fact, one couple we met told us a story of one of their friends having their entire RV ‘tossed’ and searched by border agents - a three hour ordeal, which resulted in several broken items and a huge mess that they had to clean up (the agents don’t put things back when they’re done). I’m so glad that wasn’t the case with us.

On the way into Haines, we passed several fish wheels spinning in the Chilkat River. This is the area where the largest gathering of bald eagles migrates through in the fall - with the Haines Eagle Festival held in November drawing thousands of bird watchers and photographers to the area.

We arrived in Haines around 5:30pm and found our RV Park easily (Haines Hitch-Up RV Park). The park is impeccable in cleanliness and tidiness. Each site is grassy and level, the rest rooms and showers are immaculate, and it is located within an easy walk of downtown Haines. (Map of Haines at right - click to enlarge)

We made a quick dinner, and then drove out to Chilkoot Lake State Park - 11 miles from downtown Haines. The drive to the park is lovely, skirting Portage Cove, Chilkoot Inlet, Lutak Inlet and then finally the Chilkoot River, until the road ends at Chilkoot Lake.

The river and lake are known for good fishing opportunities, and where there’s good fishing, there’s bound to be bears. We were told by several folks to visit the park near sundown for a chance to see the bears fishing - especially near the weir which is operated by the Alaska Dept of Fish & Game.

Steve was chomping at the bit to do some fishing. It hasn’t been a really good year for him, and he loves the challenge of the catch just as much as actually catching something. At this time of year, the fish aren’t what he calls “keepers” (fish snob that he is!), but it’s enjoyable to hook them.  We parked the truck at the end of the road and he joined several others on the bank of Chilkoot Lake. I wandered around with my camera, taking photos of the amazing scenery.

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I’m splitting the vacation blog into five entries because, as usual, I took a gazillion photos and have a lot to say about each portion of the trip. The five parts will be:

• (Part 1) North Pole to Haines
• (Part 2) Haines
• (Part 3) Skagway
• (Part 4) Dawson City
• (Part 5) Top of the World and Chicken & Home

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NORTH POLE to ALASKA BORDER - Monday, August 10th

Steve and I were lucky enough to get on the road earlier than usual. It always seems that the morning of a big trip, we’re scrambling around the house doing last minute things, even though we try to get it all done the night before. Steve covered for a co-worker who had National Guard duty, so he worked every day leading up to the trip. This meant that I had to do all the loading and packing, and making lists and checking things off. I got it all accomplished, and all Steve had to do was load the truck bed with the necessary automotive *stuff* that he takes when we travel, as well as Sedona’s crate.

Our first day took us about 330 miles, to the Border City RV Park  which is only 3.5 miles from US Customs. Canadian Customs was another 20 miles down the road.  I wondered about that void between US Customs and Canadian Customs. If you happen to live in that expanse of wilderness (and we did see a few trailers back in the woods), you’d have to go through Customs in either direction to get to any sizable town for supplies/groceries.

Border City RV Park was OK. It’s more of a truck stop, and the RV park was gravel pull through sites with grass between. Unfortunately, it had rained heavily for several days before our arrival so everything was a muddy mess.  Steve said the bathrooms were clean (I use the camper facilities), which is the way we rate a campground. So, for no-frills camping, Border CIty RV Park is an OK place to stop for the night.

When we left North Pole, the sun was shining. Figures… after all the smoke and then rain, we were a little disappointed to be leaving town on a good day. But I was glad for my friends that they’d finally have some decent weather.

We’ve made the drive to Delta many times, so the only photo I took on that stretch of highway was of the Tanana River with the Alaska Range in the background. We made pretty good time getting to Tok.

When we arrived in Tok (sounds like poke), I couldn’t help but smile when I saw a young man on the roof of one of the shops - mowing and edging the grass roof. According to research done by author & historian Donna Blasor-Bernhardt, Tok was named after a husky pup in 1945 when the US Army’s Corp were breaking trail north from Slana. They were working their way toward what would become the Alaska Highway. Their job not only consisted of building the road, but of naming points along the way. The young pup, named Tok, was their beloved mascot, and upon their arrival at where Tok now is, it was unanimously decided to name the junction after the pup.

Donna is a member of the Alaska Living Group, and I had the pleasure to meet her a few years ago, when she came to Fairbanks for supplies.  She’s written several books - my favorite being her autobiographical novel “Waltz with me, Alaska” which tells the true story of her family’s life in a tent, while building their cabin in Tok. Imagine spending an arctic winter in a tent with no running water, and a wood stove to keep you warm - with two small children!

After topping off the gas tank, we were on our way to the border. Along the way, we passed several small groups of bicyclists making the trip up the highway. Kudos to them for being able to pedal over all the hills. At least the downhill ride is exhilarating!

A little further down the road, we came to a scenic turnout with views of Midway Lake in the Tetlin Refuge. The clouds were fluffy and white against a deep blue sky. It was a gorgeous place to stop and stretch our legs - as well as Sedona’s.

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