August 31, 2010

Denali Park

Filed under: Photography, Roadtrips — Susan Stevenson @ 9:30 am

On Saturday, I went with my friend Kerry and her two daughters to Denali Park. Kerry booked a shuttle bus ride for us to Eielson Visitor Center at mile 66 on the park road.

There are various shuttles available to take you into the park. The shuttle to Eielson Visitor Center takes about 8 hours round trip.  If you don’t have time to go all the way to Wonder Lake (12 hours RT), at least go as far as Eielson Center. You’ll see the most stunning beauty, and (in our experience) the wildlife is much more abundant between the entrance and Eielson Center, than it is on the stretch between Eielson and Wonder Lake.

You don’t have to take a shuttle bus ride to enjoy Denali Park, if time or funds are limited.  You can drive your personal vehicle to mile 15, hike the Savage River trail, see a sled dog demonstration, and enjoy the Visitor Center - all for free. If you’ve got children, ask the ranger at the Visitor Center for a Ranger Pack. These backpacks have all sorts of interesting things in them to help keep children entertained: books, a compass, thermometer, litmus paper to test the water in the park, measuring tape, plant and animal identification guides, plaster of paris and a wolf print mold, and so much more. I was amazed at just what came with the backpack. And it’s also free, but you’ll have to sign for it and turn it back in at the end of the day.

We left North Pole under dark skies and drizzle. We pretty much knew there would be no sighting of Denali on our drive, but the rain didn’t bother us. In my experience, wildlife is much more active when it rains. Perhaps because it’s cooler. And overcast skies are perfect for photography; the colors just POP!

We made a pit stop at Sunrise Bagel for breakfast sandwiches, as this is a mandatory stop before any roadtrip! Their ham, egg, and cheese on a bagel is yummy, and their breakfast burrito gets two thumbs up too.

With the rain and the limited visibility caused by fog, the drive to the park took a little longer than usual. We only had about 30 minutes to spare before we had to be in line for our bus. The bus wasn’t full, so we were able to each have our own seat.  TIP: If the bus isn’t full, or if you’re traveling with more than two people, make sure that you grab seats on opposite sides of the bus. This way, no matter what side the wildlife is on, you can get a look out the window without having to climb over someone you don’t know!

We were thrilled to see that Autumn has definitely arrived in the park. Large swathes of scarlet tundra goes off into the distance, while pockets of brilliant yellow and gold stand in the midst of still-green birch and aspen. It won’t be long before all the trees are cloaked in gold. While the foliage is not at peak, it’s getting there quickly. I predict we’ll be well past peak by Road Lottery weekend.  It wouldn’t surprise me if snow came before then too.

And now on with the photos - and there are plenty!

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Denali Park Denali Park
Denali Park Denali Park
Denali Park Denali Park Denali Park

The wildlife was quite active. We were thrilled to see moose, bears, wolves, caribou, sheep, and a fox.  The wolves were quite close to the road, if not directly on the road. And a couple of the bears were close enough to capture with my zoom lens, but still a little too far off to really appreciate with the naked eye.  The fox ran right across the road in front of us, but the dall sheep were mostly white specks high up on hillsides.

This grizzly bear was grazing on willow and birch bushes, and then sat down to take a break:
grizzly bear

grizzly bear

grizzly bear

We watched this wolf run along the low ridge, just above our bus. Above him, on the hill, were sheep. He seemed to be stalking them. He soon disappeared over the hill. What a thrill!
Wolf

Wolf

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Denali Park Denali Park Denali Park
Denali Park Denali Park Denali Park

After leaving Eielson Visitor Center, we came upon two bears (siblings) wrestling and playing with each other. One bear had something in his mouth, and when I looked at the image on my camera, we saw that he was playing with a “CLOSED AREA” sign. So funny!

Bear Behinds *grin*:
grizzly bear

You can make out the letters in CLOSED in this photo:
grizzly bear

While one bear stretches out in the wet grass, the other walked around peeing!
grizzly bear

grizzly bear

Fun wrestling:
grizzly bear

grizzly bear

The one sitting looks fat and happy!
grizzly bear

A little further down the road, we watched a wolf chase a rabbit. The rabbit got away.
Grey Wolf

This wolf was running right up the road in front of our bus:
Grey Wolf

Grey Wolf

My friend Kerry has the uncanny ability to spot wildlife through muddy bus windows as we’re going 30mph. I told her that I am taking her to Denali anytime I go because she doesn’t miss a thing. *grin* She spotted this handsome bull moose grazing down in a valley:

Bull Moose

You can see that he’s just recently rubbed the velvet off his antlers, as they are still tinged pink with blood:
Bull Moose

Denali Park Denali Park Denali Park
Denali Park Denali Park Denali Park
Denali Park Denali Park Denali Park
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It was a very long and exhausting day - but so worth it! I love Denali Park, and I love living only 2 hours from the park.

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DENALI ROAD LOTTERY

The road lottery is coming up on the weekend of the 17th - 20th. As you know, Steve and I didn’t win a pass this year. I resigned myself to the fact that I wouldn’t be able to drive into the park this year. I was very disappointed.

A couple of days ago, my friend Sherry sent me a message telling me that a friend of hers won the lottery, but couldn’t use the pass as she had to go out of town. She told Sherry she could have the pass. Sherry asked me if I wanted to go with her! Well, you know what my answer was!

Sherry and I, and her two daughters, will be driving in on Saturday the 18th.  We are all so excited. Sherry has never been past the Toklat rest stop (mile 53), so she is super excited about going all the way to Wonder Lake. I think we’ll go all the way to Reflection Pond, where Ansel Adams took his famous photograph of Denali - especially if the mountain is out. Of course you know there will be tons of photos from that adventure!

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IN MY YARD

It has rained quite a bit this summer. At least we haven’t had the constant rain that Anchorage has had, but nevertheless we’ve had a moist summer. Our yard is full of mushrooms of all shapes and sizes. Some are really tiny (about an inch across and 2-3″ tall), so I had to get down on my belly to shoot them:
I don't know what kind this is

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It’s hard to believe that September is just about here. Where did the summer go? I feel like the past three months have just flown by.

While overnight temps haven’t dropped below freezing yet, there have been several frost warnings. Steve and I have been covering the tomato plants and the sunflowers. One of my sunflowers is showing some yellow and I hope that it will bloom soon, so I can enjoy it before it dies. We’ve been able to harvest three nice red tomatoes, but the other 25+ tomatoes are still green and firm.  Hopefully covering them at night will buy us some more time, as our afternoon temps are still in the 50s and low 60s.

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Please keep my brother and his family in your thoughts and prayers. They have been having a very difficult time since Sean’s passing, and I am so worried about them - individually, and as a family unit. I sent them information for their local Compassionate Friends Group (a group specifically for those who have lost a child), but they’re not ready to participate in a support group at this time.  I don’t know what to do for them, except listen. I wish I could take their pain away.

10 Comments »

  1. Your photos are extraordinary, thank you again and again for sharing so generously with us all. I can only hope and pray that Sean will find a way to comfort his parents from Heaven.

    [Reply]

    Susan Stevenson Reply:

    Thank you Therese. And my family thanks you for your thoughts during this sad time.

    I apologize for the delay in responding to your comment. The last week got away from me!

    Take care,
    Susan

    [Reply]

    Comment by Therese — August 31, 2010 @ 3:21 pm

  2. Your photos are just phenomenal!! Thoroughly enjoyed the trip to Valdez through your lens as well. I’ve still not been to Denali or Fairbanks and it is going on 3 years of living here. Nearly unforgivable it is. We’ve been a bit limited in our traveling this summer .. I’ve enjoyed doing it through you!

    [Reply]

    Susan Stevenson Reply:

    Hi Anita, and thank you for commenting! I’m glad you enjoyed my photos.

    I love Denali. It is such a special place. So much beauty and wildlife to be enjoyed there - in every season.

    You should try to get to Denali in the off-season. That’s my favorite time to go, as you can drive your own car into mile 30 and get out and hike and explore at your leisure. In the late autumn, I’ve run into snow showers while in the park, and in late spring, the snow covered mountains are gorgeous against the thawing tundra.

    If you ever do make it to Fairbanks, give me a shout. I love meeting new people; we can have coffee or lunch or something. :)

    Take care,
    Susan

    [Reply]

    Comment by Anita — August 31, 2010 @ 8:26 pm

  3. What a great time to visit Denali. When we come up to AK with our motorhome, we plan to come early and leave late … just have to experience some of the spring and fall of this great state (and maybe even a bit of the winter) … I already know the summers are wonderful!

    Really enjoyed the scenery and bear photos, but the wolf photos were the winner for me … maybe because our only wolf sighting when we were in AK this August was during our bear trip to Katmai, and we only saw him running amongst the driftwood as we were wading from the boat to the beach at Hallo Bay. The sunlight had bathed the wolf in a beautiful golden glow … no digital images I’m afraid as the cameras were still safely packed in our waterproof bags, but the memory is etched into our brains.

    Driving through Denali at your own pace … what a great opportunity … here’s hoping for peak foliage and lots of wildlife to entertain you (and us, in turn).

    I can’t even imagine the pain your brother and family must be enduring … you are right in saying that all you can do is listen … continued thoughts and prayers go their way.

    [Reply]

    Susan Stevenson Reply:

    Thank you Erin. I do hope you’ll take an extended trip to Alaska. We’ve met quite a few folks over the year (full-timers) who come to AK in early May and stay until late September. Although much of the tourist stuff isn’t open until summertime, there are so many spectacular places to boondock up here if that’s what you want to do.

    Seeing wolves in the wild is an amazing experience. I’ve been really lucky the last few drives into the park with the wolves. They really don’t mind showing themselves this year.

    Your experience with the wolf viewing in Katmai is amazing. Katmai is such a gorgeous place to begin with. Add in a wolf sighting, and that’s pretty much perfect. I know you’ll never forget that.

    I’m very excited about driving into the park next weekend! It’s going to be a long trip, but one I look forward to!

    Thanks for your thoughts for my brother and his family, and all of us.

    Take care,
    Susan

    [Reply]

    Comment by Erin — September 1, 2010 @ 3:35 am

  4. I’ve made it to Alaska twice, but always on a working trip with my husband. I haven’t made it to Denali yet. You have really whetted my appetite. The pictures are beautiful and your bear shots are great!

    [Reply]

    Susan Stevenson Reply:

    Denali is a must if you come to AK. Not only when the weather is good, but even when it’s not so good. We had rain and mud on the windows, but the wildlife was quite active. The animals like the cooler weather more.

    I hope you’ll get to the park sometime. Even if it’s off season, you can drive in to mile 30 while the road is clear to snow.

    Thank you for your kind words,
    Susan

    [Reply]

    Comment by Connie — September 3, 2010 @ 1:52 pm

  5. Awesome, Susan! It was almost as good as being there. Your photos are spectacular! Thanks for sharing.

    [Reply]

    Susan Stevenson Reply:

    Thank you very much, Janet. :)

    Susan

    [Reply]

    Comment by Janet — September 4, 2010 @ 6:26 pm

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