Living in Alaska - Life in the Last Frontier

Part One: Valdez and Cordova Day One

Part Two: Exploring Cordova

Part Three: Cooper Landing and Palmer

DENALI NATIONAL PARK

It takes 3 - 4 hours to get to Denali from Palmer, depending on traffic and driving conditions. They’ve been doing a lot of roadwork on the Parks Hwy, so there can be delays when the pilot cars are in use.  Alaska always does road repair in the summer months. It’s something we’re used to.

I overheard one person tell another that they got stuck for 45 minutes on the Parks Hwy a few days prior. I am glad that the delay we experienced was only 15 minutes. The stretch of highway that they’ve repaired and repaved is wonderful! It’s so smooth and quiet. Too bad these repairs don’t last too many extreme winters up here.

We chose McKinley RV Park to stay. It’s located in Healy - fifteen or twenty minutes north of the park entrance. This was our first experience with McKinley RV, because I never knew it was there. It’s located down a hill behind a gas station and convenience store. The sites are treed, there is a tree-covered tenting area, and it has full hookups. There was definitely more breathing room around our camper, when compared to our usual: Grizzly Bear Campground 6 miles south of the park entrance. At Grizzly Bear, we’ve always felt we needed a big shoehorn to get into our site. Both campgrounds have pretty surroundings though. It’s a beautiful part of the state.

After setting up camp, Steve and I were planning to drive into the park to Savage River - the farthest you can go with your private vehicle - and hike the trail that follows the river.  But soon after putting out the awning, a strong wind came out of the mountains, shaking the trailer from side to side. We stayed put.

We had reservations on the 1:30pm shuttle to Eielson Visitor Center (mile 67) in the park.  We chose the late trip because we knew there’d be less people on it, and we hoped the wildlife would become more active as it got later in the afternoon and evening.

After breakfast, we checked in at the Wilderness Access Center, picked up our bus passes, and checked out the Visitor Center (photo at left). There are very interesting exhibits at the Visitor Center. The bookstore is a great place to browse too.

Around the Visitor Center are several walking/hiking trails that are an easy or moderate walk for most folks. There are also a few trails that are ADA accessible. All the times I’ve visited the park, I’ve never taken the time to check them out. With more than an hour before we had to catch the bus, Steve and I enjoyed a leisurely stroll (about a mile) through a spruce forest, where we saw all sorts of mushrooms and quite a bit of moss and lichen.

By the time we lined up for our shuttle ride, the skies were clearing nicely and the sun was shining. We all had a good feeling about the upcoming drive.

Our bus driver’s name was John Allen. John has worked as a Denali bus driver for more than 25 years and recently won the award of “Guest Services Employee of the Year” in February.  John was very knowledgeable about the park, the wildlife, the flora and fauna, and the history. But Steve and I were disappointed in some aspects of the ride.

Steve and I felt that the trip would have been better if we would have been traveling the speed limit, instead of so much faster. At times, the bus couldn’t be stopped quickly enough for us to enjoy a sudden wildlife sighting or pretty landscape. We felt very rushed - something we’ve never felt on previous bus trips.

We were so far ahead of schedule, that we spent an hour at Eielson Visitor Center, when that stop is only supposed to be 30 minutes long. I’d have much rather driven slower to really appreciate the immense beauty that is Denali. Maybe John was tired and wanted to get back, as it was the next to last trip of the day.  *shrugs*

However, despite the whirlwind drive, I do believe our choice to go later in the afternoon was a smart one. We were privileged to see grizzly bears (8), wolves (4), caribou (6), and hundreds of Dall Sheep. In fact, a grizzly bear ran across the road in front of us,  a wolf ran down the road right next to the bus, and more than a dozen Dall rams lay next to the road on the return trip. We also saw arctic ground squirrels, as they are known beggars at Eielson Visitor Center.

Here’s the grizzly that ran across the road right in front of our bus:

Looks like he was giving us a little smile:

He’s so beautiful!

The mountain didn’t show itself, but we were happy that the weather was nice for us. When we arrived at Eielson Visitor Center, we could see rain falling out in the direction of the mountain.

I love the flag against the mountains:

Here’s the friendly ground squirrel who was hoping for a handout:

One of the things I love about Eielson Visitor Center, is the many informational signs scattered around the area. Several of them have lovely quotations on them.

“The long fight to save wild beauty represents democracy at its best. It requires citizens to practice the hardest of virtues - self-restraint.” ~  Edwin Way Teale, naturalist

“…once destroyed, nature’s beauty can not be repurchased at any price.” ~ Ansel Adams, wilderness photographer

“Wilderness is a resource which can shrink, but not grow…” ~ Aldo Leopold, conservationist

“Wilderness itself is the basis of all our civilization. I wonder if we have enough reverence for life to concede to wilderness the right to live on?” ~ Margaret Murie, author and conservationist

“… in every walk with Nature, one receives far more than he seeks.” ~ John Muir, conservationist

“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do, than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.” ~ Author Unknown

This was taken from the bus - through the front windshield:

These Dall Sheep (all rams) were content to relax on the side of the road. Below them, on the hill, were dozens more. Adult rams live in bands which seldom associate with ewe groups except during the mating season in late November and early December. Typically, we see ewes and lambs high in the hills and mountains, where they are safer from predators.

As afternoon became evening, and the sun began its descent to the horizon, the colors in the mountains changed with the warmer light, while the clouds cast mottled shadows over the landscape.

And then came the icing on the cake… a final display of color to end a perfect day in the park.

IN OTHER NEWS…

Steve and I did not win the Denali Lottery this year. We are so disappointed. I was really hoping to have the opportunity to drive into the park in September. A couple of my friends and I had a deal that we’d drive in together if any of us won, but none of my friends won a pass either. A real bummer.

However, this doesn’t mean we won’t be able to enjoy the fall foliage. I’m considering a drive on the Denali Highway with a couple of friends. It’s not inside the park, but it’s just as beautiful. The only downside to driving the Denali Hwy is that it will be hunting season, which drives off the wildlife.  That’s the best part about winning a lottery pass - being able to see the wildlife. *sigh*

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Not all is bleak though; I have good news to share!

Several months ago, I submitted a photo for the Alaska’s Hidden Gems Photography Contest, sponsored by the Alaska Wilderness League. From the website: The contest features lands in Alaska under the management of the federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM), which hold some of our nation’s greatest natural treasures: the world’s largest wild salmon fishery, the largest surging glacier in North America, millions of migratory and resident birds, the state’s largest caribou herd and longest River; the mighty Yukon.

I’m happy to report that I placed 3rd overall & was the winner of the Humans and the Environment category.  Last year’s winners got to see their work on display at the Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitor Center here in Fairbanks. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we are able to see our winning entries there too.

In other good news: You may recall photographs of a totem being carved in Haines, when Steve and I visited last summer. This totem was created for, and erected in front of, the Haines Library.  Several months ago, I was contacted by a representative of the library, asking me if I’d be willing to donate that photo for the interpretive sign that they are installing in front of the totem.  (I had already allowed them to use it for the brochure) Well, of course I said YES! The thought of having one of my photos on a sign that thousands of tourists will see is quite exciting.  I received a *proof* of the sign layout and can’t wait until it’s in place. (I was promised a photograph of it and will be sure to share it with you all)

Until next time…