Let’s Go Road-Tripping!
It’s 42 below zero outside my front door. Brrrr! It would be a good day for a “boiling water into snow” experiment, but I think I’d rather stay inside where it’s warm. There’s a layer of ice fog hanging over town, creating a misty view from my windows. It looks cold out there!
When I wrote last, I was planning a road trip with my friend Lori. I wasn’t feeling safe about driving my car 320 miles in 34 below zero temps, so Lori offered to drive instead. She has a jeep, which performs much better in the cold than my car does.
I packed a bag with emergency gear: arctic boots, extra socks, gloves and mittens, snow pants, a hat, several energy bars, and water. I wore my heavy parka and several layers of fleece, as well as long underwear. Many miles of the Richardson Hwy are deserted - even more so in the winter months.
As we left North Pole behind, the temperature gauge in Lori’s car was reading -34F. Brrrrr! Fortunately, it warmed up as we headed south on the Richardson Highway. By the time we reached the Delta area, it was a balmy -14F. Even further down the road I think we saw -4F, but the wind was really starting to pick up. It may have been -4F on the temperature gauge, but the windchill made it feel like -50F. I am so thankful to live in the Fairbanks area, where the wind is pretty much nonexistent. It was brutal down there. I felt like I was being stabbed by a million needles, standing out in the wind to take photos.
We hoped for a beautiful sunrise, but there were low hanging clouds in the Salcha area, which obscured most of the sky and the mountains. The range was visible from the first overlook, however, a little further down the road, the sky was dark with clouds again. Then they lifted as the sun came over the mountains.
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We decided to take a side trip to Bolio Lake. I love the view of the lake when you approach. The road is higher in elevation, so you get to look down on the lake and get the full effect of the mountains behind it. This time of year, the lake is quite frozen (3 feet thick, from what I’ve heard), and there are a couple of ice fishing shacks on the ice. You can rent these shacks and try your hand at ice fishing (arctic grayling, rainbow trout).
In the photo below, you can see two ice fishing shacks on the frozen lake. It just so happens that my online friend Hayley (her blog is linked in my Blogroll list), was in one of those ice houses with her husband and daughter. I do hope to meet her in person soon.
We continued south toward Donnelly Dome. Donnelly Dome stands alone in the middle of a huge valley and is 2400′ in elevation. It’s a popular hiking destination, and one of these days I’ll actually attempt the climb. It’s not a difficult climb, but steep. They say to allow a half a day for the climb. For me, it would probably be an entire day since I have to stop and rest periodically due to my asthma.
Soon the Alaska Range loomed large on the horizon. It was overcast, so we weren’t getting the full spectacular view of the mountains against cloudless, blue skies. But that didn’t make it any less beautiful. If anything, the cool blues and grays of the landscape reflected perfectly the frigid temperature.
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This pano shows the Richardson Hwy as it passes Donnelly Dome:
We saw a group of caribou along this portion of the highway, but the warm air coming out of Lori’s jeep when we opened the doors to get out, made my photos blurry. It was good seeing them, although I expected to see more. I do hope to get down to the Denali Hwy in a few months, when they’re migrating through that area.
After you pass Donnelly Dome, you come upon a Trans Alaska Pipeline viewpoint. The view of the range is spectacular from this pull-off, and since the sun was low in the sky, a band of pale orange was off in the distance.
In the photo below, you can see how the pipeline snakes off into the distance. The pipeline is 800 miles long, 48″ in diameter, and goes from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez. It crosses three mountain ranges and over 800 rivers or streams. 420 miles of the pipeline is above ground to protect delicate permafrost. Permafrost is permanently frozen soil, and if the pipeline were buried, the heat from the oil moving through it would melt the ground - making it unstable. Check out the “Matter of Fact” section at the Alyeska website, for answers to commonly asked questions about the pipeline.
Here are the magnificent views from this portion of the Hwy:
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The Black Rapids Glacier area is absolutely stunning. On a clear day, you can see Black Rapids Glacier off in the distance. Monday, it was invisible, as the clouds were too thick.
Black Rapids Glacier is known as the “Galloping Glacier”. Most glaciers move downwards at the rate of less than 3ft per day, but observation of the Black Rapids Glacier during 1936-1937, showed that it was moving more than 100ft per day, which earned it the nickname. This is the swiftest advance ever recorded for any glacier in the world and was probably due to the extremely heavy snowfalls that had occurred in the area some years earlier.
On the Richardson Hwy here, is the Black Rapids Roadhouse. It was opened by 1904 to serve travelers on the new Valdez-Fairbanks Trail. Roadhouses could be found along all Alaska trails in the first quarter of the twentieth century. Along the 386-mile Valdez-Fairbanks Trail, which at the time was Alaska’s principal travel corridor, roadhouses were typically spaced a day’s travel between each other. Of the more than thirty roadhouses that operated along the route between 1902 and 1923, Black Rapids Roadhouse is one of only a few that survives. The owners have repaired the original roadhouse to keep it from falling down, and built a brand new lodge up on a hill overlooking the old structure.
Length of day is less than 6 hours. With mountains surrounding us, the sun disappeared from view even sooner. The sky was already beginning to turn pink and pale orange as we approached Rainbow Mountain. We decided to keep going, past Gulkana Glacier to Summit Lake. That’s where we turned around and started back to Fairbanks.
Rainbow Mountain and Rainbow Ridge is one of the most beautiful stretches long the highway. When it’s not covered in snow, the mountain is a rainbow of colors, due to mineral deposits. Even in white, it’s a magnificent sight:
To the west, across the expanse of snow, the sky was turning golden:
Gulkana Glacier was barely visible from the road, but as we began to descend from Isabel Pass on our way to Summit Lake, the orange light of sunset was bouncing off the snow drifts and illuminating them with a warm glow. There are cabins on Summit Lake. Some are year-round homes, while others are seasonal homes, or vacation rental cabins. The sunset reflected off the metal siding.
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On the way back, the light began to dim, and the moon rose over the mountains. It was gorgeous! The winds were still very strong, and blowing snow came across the highway in several areas.
Almost Home…
It was a most spectacular drive, and I am so thankful to not only have the company of a great friend to experience this with, but also to have the most beautiful landscapes in the world only a drive away.
Until next time…
Absolute splendor! Your photographs feed my soul, I am so grateful that you treasure your home!
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 20th, 2011 at 5:38 pm
I am so glad we were able to get out for this drive. We both needed it badly! I’m so excited about spring coming in a few months - and more scenic drives!
Thanks, Terese.
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Comment by Therese — January 20, 2011 @ 4:29 pm
School is keeping me really busy. I’m so glad I checked in today. Wow these pictures are awesome. I even recognized a lot of them from our road trips. My pictures aren’t as nice as yours. I do know that when we get back to AK, I plan to buy some of your photos to put on our walls in the house. I love when you take roadtrips. One of these days I may be able to go with you in person instead of the virtual world. Everytime I think I’ve found a favorite and you come up with even more. Take care and thanks for sharing your road trip. Hopefully we’ll get to AK this summer but not sure. I only have part of May and the first week of June before I go back to school again. I’ll let you know. I’d love to meet you.
Tammy
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 20th, 2011 at 8:54 pm
Looking forward to meeting you in person. We can definitely go off for some road trips together.
Thanks for your nice words. Good luck with school!
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Comment by Tammy Kauffman — January 20, 2011 @ 6:40 pm
Wow! Thank you for the photos. Even though I don’t live in Alaska any longer, I consider myself a life-long Alaskan and your photos really stir me.
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 20th, 2011 at 9:01 pm
Thank you, Susan. I appreciate you stopping by. I’m happy you enjoy my photographs.
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Comment by Suddenly Susan — January 20, 2011 @ 7:47 pm
The photo even capture the cold. They are so beautiful, Susan. You guys are courageous to do such a long drive in a day.
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 11:02 am
I’m so glad we made the drive, Stan. We go crazy during the winter if we can’t get outside and appreciate the beauty. Looking forward to another drive in that direction when the caribou are migrating.
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Comment by Stan — January 21, 2011 @ 1:54 am
Some of those roads look so long and lonely…
I Love how the mountains rise up from the earth. you really know how to capture the cold in a picture
Love it All!!!
Fantastic!!
Liz
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 11:03 am
It’s very desolate along some of those stretches. Actually, the Richardson is much more of a solitary road than the Parks - even in the summer. Especially once you get past Delta Junction.
But it’s sooooo beautiful!
Glad you enjoyed the photos, Liz. And yes - it was COLD! BRRR!
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Comment by Liz McCollough — January 21, 2011 @ 3:11 am
Susan,
Love the pictures. It brought back memories a bit. When my wife and i came up to AK in 2001, we took one of the “tours” tha drove you up the highway past the arctic circle and back. We were to “chicken” to do it ourselves (during the summer) for fear of breakdowns, etc. AS it turned out, even our van had a flat on the trip. it was a long, but great ride…and seeing you go up the road in the middle of winter is quite inspiring. Curious how much traffic you saw? we saw very little during the summertime.
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 11:05 am
That drive to the Arctic Circle is beautiful too - but also so desolate, even in the summer months. We drove all the way to Deadhorse/Prudhoe a couple of summers ago. It was a gorgeous drive, but nerve-wracking too, due to the road conditions, rain, and the big rigs coming at us!
We only saw a handful of cars once we got past Delta Junction. It’s a lonely road even in the summer.
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Comment by Mark — January 21, 2011 @ 4:34 am
Stunning countryside. The photo of Rainbow Ridge, all white, is so powerful.
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 11:06 am
That highway is one of my favorites to drive. It’s so spectacular - especially when the mountains are visible. Thank you.
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Comment by Connie — January 21, 2011 @ 6:51 am
Oh, Susan - thanks for “taking us along” on this road trip - WOW - what great pictures - it takes my breath away - your pics have such depth and look so real on my laptop screen - I feel like I’m not just looking at your pics but that I’m right there experiencing the scenery with you. Like someone said, you can even feel the cold! I’m glad you and your friend could get out and take the trip. What a pleasure to not have to deal with traffic! Thank you for sharing!
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 10:18 pm
We had a really good drive. I’m so glad Lori wanted to get out as much as I did! We’ll do this again, when the caribou migrate. It will be warmer too. Hopefully!
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Comment by Connie in PA — January 21, 2011 @ 12:32 pm
Susan I thought I had better write to you or you will
be thinking I have forgot about you. No chance of
that. I sure do agree with a lot of the people that
writes to you on how wonderful the pictures are that
you took on the drive that you and Lori took. Also
you really sound like a very true Alaskian in taken
all of the emergency things. Either that you might of
did some reading to what to take while you are out
in the weather that you are in.
Please take care
Love to the both of you
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 10:19 pm
Hi John, and thank you for commenting. I have been hoping that you’re feeling OK.
We always make sure to have emergency gear and supplies with us when we’re going to be driving someplace remote, or somewhere that doesn’t get a lot of traffic. It can be deadly if you’re not prepared and you break down or have an accident.
Love to you both!
xoxox
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Comment by John and Shirley Strauser — January 21, 2011 @ 12:37 pm
great pics again. isnt it something how the pics look so cold and forbearing on one hand but yet so beautiful and so inviting on the other hand. only in alaska. smiles great job.
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 21st, 2011 at 10:20 pm
Hi Bruce, and thank you! It was so gorgeous, but the landscape did look as cold as it was too. I’m glad we went. It took care of cabin fever for awhile.
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Comment by Bruce Rufer — January 21, 2011 @ 3:38 pm
Hi Susan,
Breathtakingly beautiful photos and commentary take me on another wonderful road trip “with” you!! I look forward to your blog every day.
Eileen in Baltimore
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 22nd, 2011 at 8:44 am
Thank you Eileen. I’m glad you enjoyed going along for the ride. I hope you’re staying warm in your neck of the woods. From what I hear, the east coast has had it’s share of wintry weather!
Thank you for commenting, and for your lovely words.
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Comment by Eileen — January 22, 2011 @ 8:16 am
Beautiful pictures once again Susan! I love a road trip - Thanks for taking us along on yours! For me winter gets long about this time of year and I need some warmer weather, even if it’s just for a week. I don’t know how you do it living in Alaska! It is a beautiful state and I can understand how one would never tire of the views. I wish I hadn’t gotten sick when we were their so I could have taken more pictures! Oh well, there is always next time….maybe….
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Susan Stevenson Reply:
January 25th, 2011 at 8:18 pm
Thank you Dawn! Glad you could go along.
Steve and I have found that a winter trip helps a lot to renew our energy and get us through the long winter more easily, but this year we went to Madison to see the kids instead. Oh well, we had the warmth of family, even though we didn’t have warm weather.
Now that we’re slowly coming out of winter, I hope to make take more road trips for some fresh scenery. I just hope the next time it’s not -35F!
Sorry you were sick while here. That’s a bummer. I hope you get to revisit again soon.
Susan
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Comment by Dawn — January 25, 2011 @ 6:14 pm